November 9th, 2012
I arrived in Sultan Thaha Airport, Jambi on November 9th, 2012 at 14:21, directly I asked help from someone around me to take my picture in front of the airport.
Just when I arrived I got message from Ria, my friend who will get married at the next day. She informed me that hers uncle has waited for me and will drop me to hers house. Therefore, I arrived as Ria’s information to me. Ria’s home was at Perumahan Taman Arsenal, it took 15 minutes from Jambi Airport.
When I arrived I was welcomed by a unique design of Ria’s wedding party, everybody used nice clothe beside me. They did a little party before the wedding tomorrow with children who is parentless. It’s kind of donation day for them. The only person I knew there was only Ria, Tiwi and Ria’s mom at the first time I step my foot to her house. Then I ate ‘soto ayam’ as my lunch. After some chats with some new people I’ve just known there, they brought me to the Hotel nearby, it is Bungo Aldo hotel. A simple hotel with rate Rp. 150,000 – Rp. 250,000 but it was comfortable.
In the evening I went to congregation and I met some brothers and sisters in organization. They were so friendly, I was real enjoyed to meet them and saw another congregation from another province beside Jakarta. To be picked and drop hotel – congregation (Taman Pasar Baru) – hotel was Rp 100,000. Not nice, coz the taxi driver was fooling me. It was not supposed to be that expensive, really… After congregation I went to Empek-Empek Selamat to have dinner, the food was nice, especially the Campur Ice! It was so perfect. I ordered Empek-empek (Rp 15,000) and Es Campur ( Rp 10,000). And I bought the fish chip (kerupuk ikan) what was real nice, I ate 1 full plastic in 2 nights, price of kerupuk was Rp. 19,000 include the sauce.
After had dinner there was a little party in Ria’s house. It was so nice, relatives and closest friends of Ria’s family were gathered. Actually that night wasn’t real party, it more called by check sound and last general checking for wedding, but after all checking points done, all people include me, enjoy moment, nice laughs, and conversation and sometimes sang and danced together. Here I recognized that some relatives of Ria are good musicians. We finished the gathering at 23:30. And I came back to hotel.
November 10th, 2012
Today is wedding day! All relatives and close friend should be gathered at the location at 7am. The event will start 8am.
Ria’s dress changed 3 times, first white, then gold, then purple. She was looking pretty that day.
The new view what I saw in this wedding party was the traditional ceremony when the groom took the bride to the throne. From the distance groom and his family walked and lead by the Jambi Music Players. The groom was covered by unique umbrella, on his right was father of him, on his left was mother of him and on his back there were almost all relatives of groom. At the corner of right and left there was a guy who brought imitation of trees from paper and wood with money on each branch. They walked so slowly. They stop walked after they have around 100 meters distance from the bride’s family (without bride) and at the same time music already finished. After they stopped, the bride just showed up, Ria with a gold wedding kebaya gown! So pretty!! Therefore, parents of Ria gave Ria’s hand to her new husband, and at the same time the imitation of trees was put on lower position, and people start to take it branch. After those processions, Ria and Dullah – her husband came to the throne. And party started.
I enjoyed all moments. The traditional foods they served in the party (Tekwan, Empek-empek, Lupis, etc), music, conversations, and meeting new people. The band of Ria’s father also did the show, they sang 3 – 5 songs. The band name was Brothers Band. Content from mature guys (m…. old maybe too rude :p ). Pak Gito – Ria’s father, Pak Tris – Ria’s uncle, and some other uncles what I forgot the name (mm…. sorry ). They rock the stage! I didn’t lie, they did!
In this party also I got some additions information regarding how to reach Berhala Island.
Accordingly, I have concluded what tracks I will use to go there. First I will take public transportation with yellow color in front of the hotel, and I will get off in Sukasari Bus Station. From Sukasari Bus Station I will go to WTC to find a locket to get a car to Nipah Panjang. From Nipah Panjang I will take fisherman boat or pompong and after haggle a good price I will go to Berhala Island.
In the hotel room I directly prepared my stuff, coz tomorrow morning I got to leave the hotel room at 6am maximum.
I finished the day at 22:30 and slept.
November 11th, 2012
I left the hotel room at exactly 6am. I met Ria’s father and Ria’s uncle – Pak Tris down stair. I regarded them first before I leaved.
I have been waiting angkot kuning (public transportation with yellow color) what I mentioned in my story on November 10th, 2012 for more than 30 minutes. Then I started to be impatience, therefore I called ojek (motorcycle rental with it rider). After I bargained the price, finally we agreed in Rp 5,000. But just right after we deal the price, the angkot kuning came. Then I canceled the ojek and took that angkot. LOL. I know I know,, that ojek must be mad to me. Good thing, I am only a visitor here, so I wish he won’t remember my face.
After 30 minutes, finally I arrived in Sukasari Bus Station. I still got the opportunity to get some information from the driver. Muhamad Effendi from Kampung Kopi was the driver. He told me how to go to WTC. According to his direction, I went straight from Sukasari Bus Station and turn right. After I found the student statue, I turn left, hehehe,, I was still giving sometime to take a picture of it. In front of that statue there was a market of fruit, name of that market was Pasar Buah. From that market I went straight and I saw a special block for bank buildings, 5 minutes walking from banks block, I arrived in front of WTC Building. I arrived in WTC at 7:30am.
WTC is the biggest shopping mall in Jambi. I asked to one person, he was an ojek rider, his name was Maedi. I asked how to go to Nipah Panjang, and he said there are 2 ways. First by boat, but it will start from Jambi at 3pm. And the other option I can use travel agent car. Travel agent car is the most common public transportation what people use to go to Nipah Panjang – Jambi – Nipah Panjang. I paid Rp 50,000 for it.
There were 7 people inside the car. The Driver – Pak Zamrud, Me, Bu Emmy Situmorang from Medan, Pak Mane and hers old sister – Bu Remang from Bugis, Pak Har from java and Bu Jinah from Purworejo but live in Jambi for 20 years. We have a lot of conversation on the way, consider it’s a long journey and I need some information also for my trip. Good thing I got was, Bu Emmy allowed me to stay in her house after I asked.
I passed Batanghari river, then Aurduri 2 Bridge, Bernai River, Batanghari 2 Bridge and Muara Sabak Bridge. The road was good until I arrived in Petrocina. The road after Petrocina has shaken me a lot. And it cause the wheel of the car I used be broken and leak in the middle of the road before we arrived in Nipah Panjang. Therefore we stop a while to fix the wheel. And it causes the delay in my trip planning.
I arrived in Parit 1 – Parit Bengkok – Nipah Panjang, Bu Emmy’s house at 15:00. I directly asked Pak Sikin, husband of Bu Emmy to bring me to Berhala Island. But he wasn’t confidence coz condition on the sea will not possible us to go to Berhala Island. I used to doubt that because what I saw was the river water condition was calm. But he showed me the sky and the direction of wind, therefore I believed him. So I decided to postpone my journey to Berhala tomorrow morning.
At home, I met some kids. Rita, Yuni, Gadis, Leman, Rifky, Bima, etc. They listened to me when I got call from my boss. Because of my boss was Indian so I spoke in English. After I finished the call, Rita asked me to teach them English. Other kids started to ask the same. So I taught them English as they requested. Just a very basic learning, like as introduction and greetings.. But they were so excited about it.
With those kids I went to the Jetty of Nipah Panjang, they called it “Camp”. I saw 1 vessel and barge with 1 excavator there. The Jetty is under construction now. Because I saw some woods are covering the road to that jetty and there was another excavator blocked the road. I took a picture with kids and it makes me always happy whenever I saw their cheerful faces.
In the afternoon at 17:00, I insisted to go out, wherever, as long as not at home. So I paid Rp 100,000 to Pak Sikin to bring me to go around the river and see islands nearby. He told me that there are Tambi Island, Anak Island, and Suak Udang Island closed to Parit 1. So, short story I agreed to go there.
Those islands are situated in delta triangle between Berhala strait and Batanghari river. I tried to go swimming in there, but I know it’s danger so I hold the boat while swimming. And swimming in the brown water isn’t fun, isn’t it? But I enjoyed the view of sunset. At least, I observed something.
On the way back home, I saw some pigs and big snake in Anak Island. Anak Island is an empty island, so there are only wild animal there.
I arrived in my homestay at 19:00. Some kids were waiting for me there. They asked my promise to give them an English lesson. Then I did.. I told how to do introduction and greetings… Hehehehe, they were happy enough and proud for whatever they got.
I had nice dinner tonight. Fried Pete, Sambal, Fried Chicken, Fried Tempe and Rice…. Yummy..
At 22:00, I went to sleep.
November 12th,2012
I had prepared all my stuff since last night. So I can easily depart to Berhala Island in early morning.
I started from Parit Bengkok at 5:00am, it was rainy morning. The condition of the water was real ok in first 1 hour. But after 1 hour, I really thought that I was gonna die. Because of the wave was high and strong. Sometime if it was too strong, we turned off the boat machine several times to follow the wave, coz if we hack it, then the worst thing will happen. Probably the boat will be crashed into 2 parts. I didn’t take pompong (bigger and stronger fishermen boat). It was only old boat and small, it can only contain maximum 4 persons. Sometime boat vertically went to the left and right, so I was like real almost fell to the sea.
I was not kindly prepared, because I’ve never thought the condition will be worse than being on the long boat when I was going to Miospun and Saonek island from Waisai (Raja Ampat). I didn’t use safety jacket coz I don’t have any. I didn’t bring my backpack and stupidly, I leaved my wallet in Bu Emmy’s house. It means the only thing I brought was our lunch (fishermen and me) and my snorkeling tools, I brought sweater and 1 linen, but I don’t have raincoat. What was there to cover myself was only tarpaulin, what usually Pak Sikin and other fishermen use, if they obliged to stay a night in the empty island if they can’t come back home due to wind issues after fishing.
After 1 another hour, finally I can see Berhala Island with the other islands surround it.. 20 minutes before I got off from the boat, I have just noticed that it was the first time they came to this island. In the beginning, I was confused why they stopped when we were much closed with that island. We can see the jetty from there, why don’t we just go and reach that jetty and get off, that was my simple thought. But I prefer to find out what is real their confusion.
Well,, they afraid because they used to pass this strait only, but they have never reached Berhala island completely. They said, there are a lot of rocks surround Berhala islands, and most of them were covered by sea water and invisible. What they worry was, this boat will hit that rock and will break the boat. I didn’t say anything, because I was real blank. I don’t have any solution. After 5 minutes stopped, finally they run the boat again.. M.. They were mysterious.. They didn’t tell me whenever they will stop and run the boat. Anyhow, the only thing I can do that time was waiting what will be next occurrence.
7:30am, November 12th, 2012. I arrived in Jetty of Berhala Island what owned by Province of Riau. Fortunately, I arrived in 1 piece. I welcomed by a wonderful view around me, I can see some fishes from jetty and I can’t wait to swim with them. And yes, I saw a lot of rocks around me. Those rocks looks like arranged artistically, like there was someone who arranged them one by one until it created a beautiful view. I have several questions in my mind. How do they live, how is the condition of the sea, name of islands, is there any cottage here, how many people live here, etc. And fortunately I met one guy who I greet in the very first step of mine in Jambi’s village.
From jetty I saw some houses with yellow color, all with the same design. It made my common understanding and conclusion. I thought, those are cottages. So I came closer. But what I found was completely different than my first thought, those weren’t cottage, those were houses of Jambi’s people. It name is Village of Jambi. In this village I met Ian. He stands up in front of marquee and I greet him.
Ian is a Jambi’s resident. He was 1 year younger than me. He lives in Berhala Island for 6 years with his mom and dad. After I greet him, I attacked him with questions. Hehehehehe…. First he explained to me that most of people here are fishermen (lol, no wonder). And he told me the name of Islands what surround Berhala island. I started from the east part (entrance from Nipah Panjang). There was an island what contain only rocks and 1 building on it, I guess that was a house (well until now I am still curious what building is that, whether that is a house or cottage or just watchtower, anyhow I will visit that building one day), that island name was Lampu island, it situated on the south of Berhala Island. In the east of Berhala Island there was Layak Island. Compared by Berhala island, Layak Island was contain more rocks, and I was real eager to stay a night with tent in that island, turn on the fire, catch and cook fish alone, well maybe with 1 or 2 accompanies will be better :p . And the northwest of Berhala Island, there was Telur Island. Telur means egg in English. This name came from the characteristic of this island. Yeah,, this island is the place for sea turtle to lay their eggs whenever full moon
reach the night.
The other information I got was about confrontation between 2 governments, Riau and Jambi. Well,, don’t judge bad first when I say confrontation word, because this island was real peaceful island. I will make it to be short explanation, but still neutral. Jambi deem that Berhala Island is belong to them because most of the territorial of Berhala Island is owned by Jambi, and Riau only owned 47,990m2, and Jambi owned some evidence (map from 1933) what showed that based on history, Berhala Island is belong to Jambi. But…… Jambi family who live in Berhala island was only 4 families and Riau has 120 families in that island (this amount is the updated one when I visited that island ya..). And from the Geographic part, location of Berhala Island is closer to Riau than Jambi. But all people there live in peace. Even Ian brought me around Riau’s Village. People know Ian well and greet him. They don’t care who is from Jambi and who is from Riau. I visited one house of family from Riau though ;). And they were so friendly.
More information I got when I visited Ian’s house. Here I got some news. Ian was a jambi province’s volleyball player and he was the best shooter. I saw his picture in the tournament, which is cool.. hehehehe.. And I met Ian’s mother here. I discovered that they used to live in Kuningan, Jakarta. And hers husband works for government in tourism division. His name is Zunaedi. I remembered his name was mentioned in one blog one time. I didn’t meet Ian’s father but I saw his pic with some tour groups.. People here are so friendly, the thing what is very necessary in tourism place.
After friendly talks with tea and some crackers, I went snorkeling. I can’t believe that I can swim with a sea turtle what as big as my half body. It was not for long duration, but it was so exciting. I was very very very closed.. I swam with a lot of yellow tail fishes too (caesio sp.). It’s interesting.
As Ian’s guidance, finally I went to Telur Island. It takes 10 minutes from Berhala Island. Again, I saw an amazing view. But some garbage destroyed this beauty. This is an unpopulated island, those garbage must mostly came from other source. Yeah my mind directly flying to the visitor of this island and the way people throw their garbage to the river what I saw by my own eyes in Nipah Panjang, they daily do it. Maybe the visitor has realized that throwing garbage not to trashcan, will give bad impact to nature especially the sea. But the problem is there are a lot of people who live on the river has no idea that what they do is wrong. Not only people in Nipah Panjang. But also other rivers, even Jakarta! Well.. I used to live next to river as well (Palmerah – West Jakarta), I used to try to remind my neighbor to stop throwing their garbage to the river, but they won’t. People habit to make river as the giant trashcan is so common here. That’s why there should be someone who should educate them, and make them realize that what they are doing is totally wrong. See… Their garbage came to this innocent island.
Beside of those view garbages, I saw a wonderful view. I was feeling like I was in the paradise. Telur Island has 2 natural pools. It’s not real a pool but looks like a pool, coz it has round shape.. Grrrrr… I don’t know how to describe it. But it was like WOW. This island has 3 beaches. First beach was in the entrance from Berhala Island, the place I “park” the boat. And the other two was hidden by some trees. I suggest you to get on the highest rock in Telur Island. Then you will see how wonderful it is. Beside that you can see from the distance the broken MV. Baruna Mega what aground in the waters of the Berhala Strait on October 9th, 2010. On this rock you can even yell as loud as you can, because nobody can listen. Water and rocks and sky and trees and beach, and empty, wonderful. From this rock you can see 2 pools in Telur Island. In those pools you can see rocks everywhere, some of them are covered by the water.
One “pompong” (the bigger fishermen boat) through those rocks without hit it. How could they know the location of the rocks? They can’t see the bottom of their ship right? But then I got the answer from Ian. They were local people of Berhala Island. “Local people of Berhala can hear coral and rocks sing and talk” Ian said. M….. I see…. Impressive ya?
I snorkel around Telur Island…
……….. (to be continue)